Discovering Phnom Oudong: Cambodia’s Former Royal Capital

When I first visited Phnom Penh in the early 2000s, a local friend introduced me to Phnom Oudong (also spelled Oudong or Udong). This historical gem is about 40 kilometers northwest of Cambodia's current capital. The name "Oudong" means "supreme" or "victorious" in Khmer, which fits its royal heritage perfectly. Recently, I revisited this magnificent site after coming down from Skun, a province known for its edible spider delicacy. I'm excited to share this experience with you!

A Glimpse into Cambodia's Royal Past

Phnom Oudong, or Oudong Mountain, served as Cambodia's royal capital for nearly two and a half centuries, from 1618 to 1866 during the post-Angkorian era. Established by King Srei Soryopor (who reigned as Ponhea Nhom), the capital remained here until King Norodom moved the royal court to Phnom Penh.

Top view of stupas and temples across a ridge of hills

The site itself is breathtaking. A series of stupas and temples spread across a ridge of hills that stretches about 1.5 kilometers long. As you ascend, you're rewarded with panoramic views of Cambodia's lush countryside. The highest peak reaches approximately 509 feet (155 meters) above the surrounding plains.

Spiritual and Cultural Treasures

Walking through Phnom Oudong feels like stepping through pages of Cambodian history. The site houses numerous significant religious structures, including:

• The Preah Reach Throap (Royal Treasury Stupa), which contains the remains of King Monivong.

• The unique Chedi Damrei Sam Poan, distinguished by three white elephants at its base.

• Several royal tombs containing the remains of Cambodian kings.

• The 19th-century Arthaross Temple.

• The main temple complex, Phnom Preah Reach Throap.

  
  

Like many Cambodian treasures, Phnom Oudong bears the scars of the country's troubled past. During the Khmer Rouge period (1975-1979), the site suffered extensive damage, with many temples and stupas destroyed or looted. Thankfully, restoration efforts began after the fall of the regime to preserve this crucial piece of Cambodian heritage.

The historical importance of Phnom Oudong received international recognition in 2008 when it was added to UNESCO's Tentative List for consideration as a World Heritage Site.

A Living Cultural Site

Arthaross Temple

Today, Phnom Oudong thrives as both a tourist destination and an important pilgrimage site for Cambodians. Visitors can climb the 509 steps to reach the summit, where they can explore the various religious monuments while enjoying spectacular views.

The site becomes particularly vibrant during Cambodian holidays and festivals. Locals gather to make offerings and honor their ancestors and former kings.

View of pagodas from the top of Phnom Oudong

For Cambodians, this place represents much more than ancient architecture. It's a vital link to their pre-colonial history and stands as a powerful symbol of Khmer cultural identity and resilience. It continues to play a significant role in the nation's spiritual and cultural life.

Culinary Delights at the Base

No visit to Phnom Oudong would be complete without exploring the small but vibrant food market at the base of the hill. Here, vendors offer traditional Cambodian dishes that provide a perfect introduction to authentic Khmer snacks and food.

While smaller than markets in Phnom Penh, this market offers an authentic taste of local Cambodian cuisine. Food stalls operate during daylight hours, with the busiest period during lunch when visitors are exploring the historical site. Prices are slightly higher than what locals might pay in non-tourist areas, but they remain reasonable. Most vendors have basic English skills to accommodate international visitors.

Practical Information for Visitors

Getting to Phnom Oudong from Phnom Penh is straightforward, with several transportation options:

Transportation Options:

• Tuk-Tuk or Taxi: The most popular choice, taking approximately 1-1.5 hours depending on traffic. A round-trip tuk-tuk costs around $15-20 USD, while a private taxi runs $25-30 USD. Drivers typically wait while you explore the site before returning you to Phnom Penh.

• Public Bus: An economical option at just $1-2 USD one way, departing from Phnom Penh's Central Market (Psar Thmei) or the Northern Bus Terminal. Note that schedules can be irregular, and you'll need to take additional transport from the main Oudong intersection to reach the hill.

• Organized Tours: Many Phnom Penh travel agencies offer day tours to Phnom Oudong, sometimes combined with visits to nearby attractions like the Pottery Village of Kampong Chhnang or the Silver Pagoda. These typically cost $40-60 USD per person, including transportation, guide services, and sometimes lunch.

• Motorcycle Rental: For independent travelers comfortable navigating Cambodian roads, motorcycles can be rented in Phnom Penh for approximately $6-10 USD per day. The route is straightforward – follow National Road 5 northwest for about 35 kilometers, then turn right at the Oudong sign.

  
  

Tips for a Better Visit:

For the best experience, start your journey early in the morning (around 7-8 AM) to avoid midday heat, especially important if you plan to climb to the hilltop temples. Most visitors spend 2-3 hours exploring, making this an ideal half-day trip.

• Wear comfortable shoes suitable for climbing the numerous steps.

• Bring your own water, though vendors at the base do sell refreshments.

• Dress respectfully with shoulders and knees covered, as this is a religious site.

• Have small denominations of USD or Cambodian Riel for entrance fees, food purchases, and donations.

  
  

Panoramic views of Cambodia's lush countryside.

Phnom Oudong offers a perfect blend of history, spirituality, culture, and gastronomy - all just a short journey from Phnom Penh. Whether you're a history enthusiast, a food lover, or simply seeking authentic Cambodian experiences, this former royal capital deserves a place on your Cambodia itinerary.